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The Complete Pointy Bra Guide

We are passionate about lingerie here at True Corset. You would expect us to know everything about corsets, but we also know a lot about bras too. Having been instrumental in the revival of the pointy bras, more commonly known as bullet bras, we have a lot of knowledge to share.

The bullet bra is an icon of the 1950s. Its appearance on the fashion scene transforming the way we thought about the female silhouette. A favorite of stars like Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren it quickly became burned into our collective fashion consciousness. It is a look that combines feminine appeal with a subtle but provocative edge and remains a distinctive aspect of pin-up style. The bullet bra has enjoyed a revival in recent years as vintage fans seek out a more authentic experience.

More than just a way to relive a vintage experience, the bullet bra is comfortable, sexy and helps some styles sit correctly against the body.

Explore the world of bullet bras and get inspired below.


What is a Bullet Bra?

A bullet bra is a distinctive type of bra that creates a pointed or torpedo shape to the breasts. This is achieved by spiral stitching which emphasizes a pointed appearance. The bullet bra was built on the softly conical bras of the 1940s but with a much more defined finish.


The Marilyn bullet bra by Court Royal

The Bullet Bra Pad

Bullet bra pads add fullness and emphasis to the bullet appearance. They are also great if your breasts are smaller or simply don’t naturally fill out a bullet bra shape. If you find your bullet bra has some wrinkles over the tip – try a bullet bra pad. They fit easily into the end of your bullet bra and add immediate impact.

What is a Cone Bra?

A cone bra is similar to the bras of the 1940s, lifting and separating with a subtle conical shape. Cone bras are not padded and provide a soft feminine silhouette. A cone bra is ideal if you find the bullet bra a little too much or want an understated version of the classic look for everyday wear.


The Marlene cone bra by Court Royal

Conical Bras vs Bullet Bras

The term conical bra is often uses interchangeably with bullet bra which can make things more than a little confusing. The conical or cone bra has a less defined shape and lacks the spiral stitching that truly defines a bullet bra.

What about the Torpedo Bra?

The torpedo is the distinctive shape created by the bra, a pointed or torpedo shape to the breasts. This is achieved by spiral stitching which emphasizes a pointed appearance. The torpedo bra was built on the softly conical bras of the 1940s but with a much more defined finish. Bullet bras are often referred to as torpedo bras and vice versa.

Overwire Bras

Overwire bras are another popular 50s shape that, like the bullet, provide a distinctive vintage feel. Overwire bras (as the name suggests) are made up of a soft cup, often sculpted, and a wire running around the top of the bust – they are strapless but provide great support – making them an excellent choice for strapless gowns and tops. This unusual structure creates a rounded, softly triangular shape and would make a great addition to your vintage lingerie collection.

The Uplift Bullet Bra

The uplift bullet bra is a variation on the overwire bra in shape but misses the metal wire that gives the above its distinctive name. Spiral stitching gives this bra an instantly recognizable bullet shape while straps running from the cup provide uplift. Court Royal revived this style with the Norma Jeanne uplift bra, which offers the option of detaching the uplift straps from the shoulder straps.


The Norma Jeanne Uplift bra by Court Royal

The Sweater Girl Look

The sweater girl look was a uniquely 40s and 50s phenomenon and grew from the trend of wearing tight sweaters over cone or bullet shaped bras to create a distinctive silhouette. This style soon became a must-have trend for women across the world and has today been revived by a growing interest in vintage fashion. Hollywood stars like Lana Turner and Jayne Mansfield helped to popularise the sweater girl look.

The Perfect Bullet Bra Fit

Getting the perfect bra fit is tough enough with modern bras, so where do you start with the bullet?

The fit of a bullet bra is critical. A poor fit will appear wrinkled and lack the right support. If you wear modern bras without padding then you are probably going to take the same size in a bullet bra. If you tend to wear a padded or push up bra it might take a little more thought. If you can’t find somewhere that stocks bullet bras near you then try then work out your size in a modern soft cup bra and take that as a guide.

A word of caution for those women who take a size above a DD. You should opt for a band size lower and cup size bigger in a bullet. This is because vintage style bras lack the stretch of modern designs.

Good strap adjustment is also key to getting a good fit. Straps need to be tight to hold the material of a bullet bra in place correctly.

Should you need any help with this, just contact us, our devoted team know everything there is to know about bullet bras and will be delighted to help. Helping our customers to find the perfect bra for their needs is something that we pride ourselves on.

How to Wear Your Bullet Bra

Bullet bras look amazing with fashion that is contemporary to their era. A 50s-style sweater, blouse or dress looks perfectly in sync with a bullet bra. They also look great with tailoring and structured pieces. Get inspired by 50s fashion shots to find a perfect match for your bullet bra.

Pair your bullet bra with modern t-shirts and stretch materials and create your own alternative look.


Final Thoughts

The bullet bra revival looks like it’s here to stay. Grab a bullet and transform your vintage lingerie experience.

You can find our full range of pointy bras here.


The Norma Jeanne uplift bullet bra, by Court Royal

Paulina De La Passionfruit xxx